[Editor’s Note: This article first appeared on our sister site, ExplorersWeb.]
Final week, after two prior makes an attempt to set a quickest identified time (FKT) on Mount Everest, runner and mountaineer Tyler Andrews launched a last-ditch try to attain the fastest-ever no-oxygen ascent of the best peak on the planet, elevation 8,848 meters (29,032 toes). This third try was simply three days after a earlier one, and with the mountain about to shut for the climbing season. Sadly, like his earlier two makes an attempt, the third one additionally ended earlier than the summit. Whereas he was initially shifting at a tempo that put the velocity document inside his grasp, after hours with out communication and his dwell tracker apparently not shifting, his crew shared the information: Tyler had circled at 8,450 meters (27,700 toes).
The route up the mountain extends from Everest Base Camp, situated at 5,364 meters (17,598 toes) altitude, via the Khumbu Icefall, previous Camps 1 via 4, and onto the South Col earlier than climbing up onto the large ridgeline extending to the summit. All advised, the route is one thing within the neighborhood of 13.5 kilometers (8.4 miles) lengthy from base camp to the summit, with on the order of three,500 meters (11,500 toes) of climb via mountaineering terrain of all types.
After three makes an attempt to set an FKT on Mount Everest, Tyler Andrews was in the end stymied in his ambitions. On this photograph, Andrews trains within the Himalayas forward of his makes an attempt. All images courtesy of Tyler Andrews.
Andrews, 35, has seen success in a wide range of totally different disciplines throughout each working and high-altitude mountaineering. In 2021, he received the Javelina 100k, and that very same 12 months, he positioned fifteenth on the Leadville 100 Mile. Earlier, in 2016, he positioned second on the IAU 50k World Championships, and he was topped the USATF 50-mile nationwide champion when he received the Tussey Mountainback 50 Mile in 2019. In recent times, he’s centered extra on large mountain efforts, and he presently holds the FKT for the round-trip climbs of 8,163-meter (26,781 toes) Manaslu and 6,812-meter (22,349 toes) Ama Dablam in Nepal. In 2023, he set FKTs on Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 meters/19,341 toes) in Tanzania and Aconcagua (6,961 meters/22,837 toes) in Argentina.
Now considerably recovered from an exhaustion he says he has by no means earlier than skilled, Andrews has defined what many have been questioning: What occurred up there on the third and last try?
The First Two Makes an attempt
After spending weeks within the spring of 2025 coaching on the slopes of Mount Everest, Andrews made his first try on the mountain with no supplemental oxygen on Might 10. Sadly, he obtained circled by points along with his boot round Camp 3 at 7,200 meters (23,600 toes). He made a second try on the mountain on Might 23, regardless of excessive winds raking the mountain. Andrews mentioned his purpose to go up regardless of the climate was the identical that prompted Karl Egloff of Ecuador, additionally pursuing an Everest FKT, to start out his personal run simply a few hours earlier than Andrews. The “Icefall Medical doctors,” a crew of Sherpas who preserve a sequence of ladders and ropes via the treacherous Khumbu Icefall, a characteristic created the place the Khumbu Glacier breaks splits aside into large, shifting blocks over very steep terrain, wished to shut the route on Might 25 attributable to warming situations, which causes the ice to shift extra quickly.
“They mentioned the icefall was shifting too quick, there had been some collapses, and it was not secure,” says Andrews. He believed his solely possibility was to go up or go dwelling.
Due to the climate, Andrews determined to make use of supplemental oxygen, which may help mountaineers transfer sooner and keep hotter at excessive altitudes, and take a look at for the general document on the mountain as a substitute of the no-oxygen one. Andrews left Everest Base Camp on Might 23 at round 8 p.m. native time. For security, he began utilizing supplementary oxygen at Camp 2.
“Meteorologists, medical doctors, my expedition chief, all of them advised me: Don’t go up with out oxygen, it’s too chilly, too windy, you’ll not attain the summit, and you’ll lose fingers and toes.”
Tyler Andrews throughout one among his many coaching and acclimatization climbs on Mount Everest.
Neither Andrews nor Egloff have been profitable. Egloff circled shortly after Camp 3, and for Andrews, too, the wind in the end dominated the day. Shortly after Camp 4, his expedition chief, Dawa Steven Sherpa, made the decision to abort Andrews’ try and withdraw all his crew from the mountain due to the excessive winds on the higher sections.
Andrews descended to base camp throughout the night time of Might 24 and flew to the Nepalese capital metropolis of Kathmandu the next day, considering he was ending his climbing season. When he hopped on the helicopter, he was positive there can be no extra alternatives. However again in Kathmandu, one thing surprising occurred.
“We realized that the large Indian Military crew had failed on their summit push on Might 23, additionally attributable to excessive winds,” defined Andrews. “Due to their affect, [the Icefall Doctors would keep] the mountain open three or 4 days extra.”
Snap Choice
Andrews mentioned, “I didn’t really feel like I had left all I had on the [previous] try, so once I returned to Kathmandu, I had a great night time of sleep and awakened the subsequent morning to listen to that the Indian crew was occurring the Might 27 in good climate. I instantly began considering that one other try was possible and after a complete bunch of telephone calls to Dawa, my household, and my crew …we determined, nicely, okay, let’s give it a go!”
Andrews flew again to Everest Base Camp and set off that very same night time, Might 26, on a no-oxygen run towards the summit of Everest.
Catastrophe at 8,000 Meters
“[On the final attempt,] the whole lot went fairly nicely till Camp 4,” Andrews defined.
He admits that his tempo slowed between Camp 3 and Camp 4. As a result of on this last-minute try, he had much less help and needed to carry a a lot heavier backpack containing his high-altitude tools. As a substitute of crew members in any respect the camps, as on his earlier tries, on Might 26 and 27, he had a help crew at Camp 4 for emergencies, however in any other case, he was alone. That slowed him down slightly, however in any other case had no bearing on his last choice.
Reasonably, one thing went flawed simply after leaving Camp 4 at 7,950 meters (26,000 toes), some 12.5 hours after departure.
“I had one among my gels and vomited it instantly, which is one thing that had by no means occurred to me earlier than. Possibly it was the altitude or exhaustion, however most likely I ought to have returned to camp and tried to eat one thing else.”
However Andrews selected to proceed up, and shortly he turned unable to handle his remaining power. “On all ultramarathons, dropping the final two hours of dietary revenue means you’re in large hassle,” he defined.
“Truthfully, once I left Camp 4, I used to be positive there was no method I used to be not making the document,” Andrews mentioned. “Within the worst-case state of affairs, attending to the highest would take me seven to eight hours, and that might nonetheless be beneath the document. However it was simply a lot slower than that.”
Tyler Andrews above the clouds on the slopes of Mount Everest.
Hallucinations within the Snow
“I ran out of gasoline, I used to be completely fried up there,” he admits. “Additionally, at that time, I had misplaced communication, so it was a really lonely stretch. I used to be above the Balcony [a flatter area on the long ridge to the summit of Everest] once I realized I used to be not going to succeed in the summit that day, and I didn’t even have contact with base camp.”
Nonetheless, he hesitated, however hallucinations lastly satisfied him to retreat.
“What actually determined me to make the decision was that I began having hallucinations from fatigue. I might have a look at the snow and see geometrical shapes and faces, stuff like that. I knew these items weren’t there, however I nonetheless may see them, and that was fairly alarming. As well as, the route above the Balcony is technical and uncovered. I had by no means been there earlier than, and I used to be completely alone, with nobody on the mountain. I made a decision I couldn’t have the document safely in that state, and my priorities are getting the document and getting again down safely; each issues equally essential.”
Andrews then circled and made his method again to Camp 4. There, he rested after which continued down with the intention to cross the icefall and attain base camp the next night time.
No Exterior Strain
Andrews denies he felt beneath any exterior stress to bag the document.
“If something, some individuals advised I shouldn’t do the final try. All of the stress got here from myself. I actually, actually wished to do it.”
As for the bodily pressure of the 2 earlier makes an attempt, Andrews mentioned he often recovers rapidly from intense efforts. He additionally felt that he had not used all his power throughout the second try as a result of the push was halted earlier than he reached the summit.
Whereas Andrews and Egloff have prevented commenting on one another, their respective Might 23 makes an attempt to run up Everest highlighted this as a race between two contenders. Nevertheless, Andrews refuses to have a look at the problem that method.
“Truthfully, I by no means noticed this as a contest; I knew Karl [Egloff] was there, I knew he had his personal crew and was trying the same FKT, however I needed to hold centered on myself and my crew. You’ll be able to’t management what others do. It’s not totally different from a marathon, through which you’re clearly not the one participant, however the easiest way to go is simply attempt to run your greatest race.”
After two prior failed makes an attempt, Andrews was desperate to strive a 3rd time. He’s pictured coaching on the mountain.
Similar Place Subsequent 12 months?
After the spectacular however heartbreaking effort, does Andrews wish to strive once more sooner or later?
“If I could make it work financially, I’ll positively be again,” he replied. “It’s a large price when it comes to cash, power, and time, nevertheless it’s an essential challenge for me. I’m 100% positive I’m able to it.”
Certainly, Everest is way from changing into cheaper or much less business. But Andrews admits it’s a very particular place.
“I nonetheless really feel that the Khumbu Valley and these mountains, that are the tallest on Earth, are very, very particular. That mentioned, there are an terrible lot of individuals there, a few of whom present much less respect to the mountain and nature than I’d prefer to see. However I believe most are there as a result of they wish to push themselves and expertise being in such a singular place. To me, watching others try tremendously exhausting for one thing they care about is tremendous significant.”
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