Stage 14 of the 2024 Tour de France runs from Pau to Saint-Lary-Soulan – summiting the two,115 meter excessive Col du Tourmalet as the primary of three onerous climbs that can certainly shake up the g.c. chief board. Numerous members of the PEZ-Crew have visited the mythic climb over the previous 2 many years, and my very own date with future some 21 years in the past remains to be clear in my thoughts.
In 2003 I tackled this beast on a road-tire geared up mountain bike as my first foray as a journalist overlaying le Tour. PEZCycling Information was simply over a 12 months previous, and though I had nearly no revenues, I knew I’d finest get myself to the Tour if I needed to play “journo” with the large children. I used to be driving an previous mtb as a result of I used to be nervous my street bike could be broken by all of the journey (I used to be a rookie…). The web in France was absolute shit again then (actually it was 56k dial up) so making posts was a multi-day process, and I used to be typically on the mercy of “le patrone du maison” – the grumpy previous geezer who ran the lodge I stayed at in Limoux would randomly minimize the swap to the telephone line of my room – interrupting me attempting to publish a narrative.
– Pez
The 2024 Tour de France stage 14 runs 155km from Pau to Saint-Lary-Soulan. My 2003 experience over the Tourmalet went in the wrong way.
Oh and it was the summer time of the warmth wave – temps hung within the excessive 30’s Celsius, typically getting over 40. The warmth was brutal.
But it surely was a tremendous Tour – each stage served up a three-ring circus of surprises because the bigs of the day – Ullrich, Beloki, Vinokourov, Hamilton, Lance – (keep in mind it was a an “period”) delivered probably the most entertaining Excursions ever.
Right here’s a glance again at my date with future driving the Tourmalet from east to west -opposite of this 12 months’s path, however no much less difficult.
The Tourmalet profile as I climbed it in 2003.
The race has climbed it from both of its two sides on 89 (?) events, I’ve climbed it as soon as. However one man who’s performed this experience nearly as many occasions is Allan Reeves – who owns France From Inside biking holidays and runs biking excursions within the south of France. His most epic journey – the Cross Pyrenees from Coast To Coast journey – in fact takes within the Tourmalet, and one in all his friends captured the total descent on video.
Watch this video of the total descent of the west aspect of the Col du Tourmalet.
TOP RIDE: The primary time I rode the mighty Col du Tourmalet was additionally the final time I rode the mighty col du Tourmalet. However that one ascent and descent stay a vivid reminiscence – even so a few years later.
It was 2003, very early days right here at PEZ, and I used to be overlaying the Tour de France for the primary time as formally accredited media. That coveted inexperienced badge was probably the most troublesome in biking to acquire, and much more so for an upstart web site writer with no background in journalism and no contacts on the within.
That’s me. Misplaced my glasses round Alpe d’Huez a number of days prior, so was lowered to carrying my spectacles for driving, and had minimize the highest out of a Saeco cap to style a biking “visor” to beat the warmth. Full marks on the “Dorkometer”.
The Tourmalet was first utilized in 1910, when Oscar Lapize was the primary rider over – and shouting “Assassins!” to the Tour organizers.
However there I used to be – for 2 week in July throughout what was one of many hottest summers on report – it was round 40C levels most days – and other people had been actually dying throughout Europe from the warmth. Other than my restricted writing credentials, I additionally had much more restricted funds – so each expense was in the reduction of to the bone – I rented the most cost effective automotive I might – the mannequin with no/c – so chasing le Tour throughout the Alps and Pyrenees with the home windows down was like residing inside a large rolling blow dryer – sizzling, noisy, and exhausting.
Watch this uncommon video of my first foray as media at Le Tour – and tiny automotive I chased the race in.
To additional save on bills, I’d traded promoting house on my small web site with two corporations providing biking journeys to Le Tour- and since I didn’t even personal a street bike again then, I slicked-up an previous mtb body and off I went.
Lance was on the peak of his powers again then, and North Individuals had been simply beginning to uncover biking holidays at Le Tour. To additional set this stage – this was additionally a time when each day Tour protection at dwelling was nonetheless onerous to search out – and each day television protection in North America – Fuggettaboutit.
The tunnels on the east ascent sign you might be entering into the excessive nation.
So I’d prescribed my very own mission as one in all overlaying a aspect of the race nobody had seen earlier than – that of the fan’s perspective. And PEZ ‘Roadside Reporting’ was born.
I’d joined the race in Lyon – heading straight to a stage end upon touchdown from my abroad flight and a 9 hour time zone change, then drove straight to Grenoble and some days within the Alps and a cease at L’Alpe d’Huez – however that’s a narrative for an additional day. From there it was south to Provence, after which east to the Pyrenees, earlier than level the automotive east once more for a 3 day journey again to Lyon for my flight dwelling.
Followers in La Mongie, with the summit within the distance.
The queen stage of my swing by means of the Pyrenees was a experience up and over the col du Tourmalet, from east to west. Though we had been staying in Lourdes – maybe the weirdest place I’ve ever seen – we van shuttled over to Bagnere-du-Bigorre to make a 70km level to level experience for the day and see the race go by.
The street to the Tourmalet from right here is uphill all the best way – albeit it very gently for first 15km, with the ultimate 11-12km to the summit entering into the 8-9% vary to the summit at 2115m above sea stage. Whereas the Tour has climbed the mountain from each side, I take into account this the simpler of the 2, because the descent from the summit to the west is lengthy – round 19km to the underside correct then one other 20km of light dropping alongside the valley flooring to Lourdes.
View again right down to La Mongie from the final kms of switchbacks.
Lengthy climbs are typically epic due to their size – however the truth that a lot of the Tour has performed out right here over so a few years, that pedalling the Tourmalet is as non secular a connection one can have with our sport. The decrease slopes from the east are by means of the forest – with no views that I recall – besides that you’re driving by means of rural alpine France – which is view sufficient for a lot of.
Made it to the summit – and dig that “HC” marking on the banner.
There’s a left-handed switchback about midway up the place the grade picks up and the terrain begins to alter. A pair kms later and the bushes skinny as you climb into the excessive alpine, after which come the snow tunnels a pair kms beneath the ski station of La Mongie – a typical European ski resort constructed up in haste within the 195o’s and 60’s – ie: ugly communist block wanting buildings, and a definite lack of character.
Wanting west with a lot of the descent layed out earlier than you.
However from right here you possibly can see the summit some 5km off within the distance, and the street ribbons and switches its approach increased. The street at the present time was crowded with followers arriving early to see the race, and there was a powerful wind nearer to the highest. The final kms reward with some beautiful views again down the valley to la Mongie, however you should maintain shifting as a result of the climate can change quick.
I made some extent of stopping on the best way right down to snap some pics – not figuring out if or after I’d go this manner once more.
It’s not unusual for the summit to be shrouded in misty clouds – and actually my day was one in all altering circumstances from solar to clouds and again. It was for positive so much cooler up right here, and the summit was full of followers clamouring over one another to get the compulsory shot undo the statue of Oscar Lapize on the prime.
I extremely suggest a cease within the restaurant there too – we stayed for lunch and I recall a scrumptious plat du jour – my favourite of all of the French meals – that warmed me up – together with a cool beer – as I anticipated the descent forward with my group.
Jackets had been donned, and we set off to soak up the descent on the now closed roads, seeking to see the Tour go after their very own ascent and drop in the identical path as us.
The descent is quick, and with no guard rails – there’s actual hazard at hand, as one PEZ fan famous on our Youtube web page. It’s actually an awesome descent, far more attention-grabbing than the climb up from the opposite aspect, because the street twists and turns, switches again a number of occasions, and passes by means of a number of postcard good French cities and previous disinterested cows. It’s usually Pyrenean.
The street is quick, the views are gorgeous, and driving it your self is the one actual approach to admire it’s grandeur, magnificence, and hazard – however that’s what makes life price residing – doing issues the remind me that I’m nonetheless alive.
Using within the area is bucket-list materials for any self-respecting bicycle owner. Contemplate a guided and supported journey with an organization like FranceFromInside biking excursions. Proprietor and lead information Allan Reeves was born in France, however grew up an American citizen in California – and is aware of his approach across the area in all probability higher than many locals.
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